Bandsaw Infeed/Outfeed Table(s)

McRabbet · 11-15-2005, 11:12 PM

I have a 14" Grizzly bandsaw with a riser block that I want to saw lots of cherry log sections into board stock (some 12/4 for leg stock, some 8/4 and some 4/4). I have the necessary blades (several 105" Timberwolf 3 TPI silicon steel), but I need to built infeed and outfeed tables to support the 4-5' long chunks of wood that may weigh as much as 150 pounds. I cut the original 24" tree (storm fall) into 4-5' lengths and then ripped them with my chainsaw along a batten screwed to the side as a straight cutting guide. The 14" square cast iron table is insufficient to support the pieces -- I plan to screw a piece of 3/4 plywood along the side to run against a fence and then flip-flop the blank between cuts to yield mostly quarter sawn boards.

I've got some basic ideas, but if anyone has already tackled the problem, I'd appreciate hearing how you approached it. BTW, my wallet cannot afford a nice big Woodmizer, but I'd sure love to have one -- all those deadfalls going to waste!!

. Of course, if one of you close to my area has one that you'd part with for a short period, I could use a real big bandsaw for starters!

Steve D · 11-16-2005, 07:40 AM

One option to consider that would require you to build a support structure would be conveyor rollers. The following is currently for sale in the Iwanna for the Greenville, SC area: You can probably find them for sale elsewhere too. You would need to pick up an Iwanna or "subscribe" online to be able to see the phone number.

Conveyor sections. 150 Total. 7½ Feet long, 13 inches wide. With aluminum rollers. Cost $98. Sell for $30 each.

woodguy1975 · 11-16-2005, 07:53 AM

Roller stands would help a lot too in resawing logs to lumber. It is easy enough to build an extension table around the saw. I would have supports that go to the floor to deal with the weight.

You are asking a lot of a 14" saw to cut logs. I hope you're not dealing with too big of diameter stuff. One note on tensioning the band for this type of operation. Forget about blade flutter. Just crank up the tension. You want as much band tension as your saw and blade can take for operations like this.

Good Luck,

John

McRabbet · 11-16-2005, 12:52 PM

Both suggestions are helpful -- I actually have a 4-foot long section of roller conveyor (rollers are 9-1/2" with mounted in a well reinforced pair of channels) that I will probably use on the infeed side. I'll make a braced support out of 2 x stock and put lags screws in the bottom of the feet for height adjustment. I suspect I'll put a fixed fence on this infeed side and just move the whoe thing to adjust my cutting width. None of the pieces of log are more than 12" (max depth of cut for the bandsaw) so I should be able to handle the job.

And yes, I realize this is a lot to ask of a 14" saw, but the wood is really nice. Thanks for the tension tip -- I would have followed the TimberWolf guidance that calls for less tension.

woodguy1975 · 11-16-2005, 02:01 PM

Good Luck. Take some pics of that wood when you get it sawn.

John

johncolvin13 · 11-16-2005, 06:09 PM

Be careful cranking the tension too high. It can burn up the bearings in the wheels. I don't remember how big of a blade that grizzly will take but you can get blades strictly for resawing, such as the Resaw Master. My 17" saw will take a one inch blade, which I know there are resaw blades that width.

good luck

Jonz · 11-16-2005, 06:29 PM

I think the common thought on that saw is that a 1/2 blade is about the max it will tension properly.

sapwood · 11-16-2005, 08:35 PM

I've used several blades for resawing large diameter stock (8-12 inches), but haven't resawn anything over 2 1/2 ft. I lack the necessary infeed/outfeed support, but using a sled provides a little extra stability. I've used Olsen, Timberwolf and most recently Woodworkers Supply's brand (Sandvik). All were 105" length and 1/2 width with 3 or 4 tpi except one that was 9/16 3 tpi. Overall, the results were similar--they dull quickly

So unless the highly rated Woodslicer proves better, I'm seriously considering carbides

As for tensioning, I'm still experimenting. But high tension does put a lot of pressure on the whole saw. It can impact alignment/setup and on two occasions my motor pulley slipped as a result.

All that aside, it sure it fun to "roll your own" wood. In fact, I'm currently experiencing difficulty throwing anything into the fireplace

Why Not?
Sapwood

DaveO · 11-16-2005, 08:43 PM

I use a 3/4" blade on my 14" Griz. for re-saw and it works like a dream. I don't have it on a riser block so the biggest piece I've sawn is about 5.5". I've cut up to 4' lengths, and used a couple roller stands for support. I think that I got the blade at Woodcraft, I don't remember what brand though. Dave

woodguy1975 · 11-17-2005, 09:51 AM

Originally Posted by Jonz

I think the common thought on that saw is that a 1/2 blade is about the max it will tension properly.

Yeap. The spring in that saw won't supply enough tension to do any damage bearings either as long as you detension when you are done. When resawing large heavy items the flutter blade test doesn't give enough tension for a flat cut across all 12". I can resaw less than .030" on my MM16 with the right tension, a carbide blade, and fence adjusted for drift. At 12" the blade will wander a lot if the tension isn't high enough if you are using 1/2". DAMHIKT. That is when having a blade more like 1" helps a lot.

Thanks,

John

McRabbet · 11-17-2005, 07:36 PM

John, I think you've solved my problem! I just load my truck up with all that cherry and come use your Mini Max! .... 'jus kidding, but thanks for the testimony... Rob

Originally Posted by woodguy1975

Yeap. The spring in that saw won't supply enough tension to do any damage bearings either as long as you detension when you are done. When resawing large heavy items the flutter blade test doesn't give enough tension for a flat cut across all 12". I can resaw less than .030" on my MM16 with the right tension, a carbide blade, and fence adjusted for drift. At 12" the blade will wander a lot if the tension isn't high enough if you are using 1/2". DAMHIKT. That is when having a blade more like 1" helps a lot.

Thanks,

John

johncolvin13 · 11-17-2005, 07:59 PM

Just one other thing I can add. When I resaw thin material, such as veneer, i use a point fence which allows you to steer the board during the sawing operation.

woodguy1975 · 11-18-2005, 12:51 PM

Point fences are great if your saw doesn't have a fence that can adjust for drift.

If you fence can adjust for drift and use a tall standard fence. For a gross resawing operation like cutting a log into lumber either will work just fine. For sawing veneer a point fence won't give you as good of a cut from my experience.

Well Rob, if you get in a pinch and have problems let me know. We could potentially work out some time on the MM16.

I have I said that I love that saw.

John

McRabbet · 11-18-2005, 02:44 PM

To be truthful, I haven't even sketched out a plan yet for the subject tables, but plan to do so after sharing turkey with several family members arriving here for Thanksgiving (none deep fried and none British) -- I'll give the sawing a go here and let you know how it proceeds...

My biggest fear if it fails is coming to Hickory to see your shop and contracting Woodguy Disease worse than the case I already have -- SWMBO has been very tolerant of my purchases to date and has already promised me a new Milwaukee router for Christmas (and maybe that 12" Hitachi Miter Saw, too...

).

I'll keep you posted!

Originally Posted by woodguy1975

Well Rob, if you get in a pinch and have problems let me know. We could potentially work out some time on the MM16. I have I said that I love that saw.

John

woodguy1975 · 11-18-2005, 03:08 PM

There no use in fighting it. Once you have it there is no cure.

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