Any "For Hire" Electricians Out Here?

[WoodWrangler]

If you follow the North Carolina Woodworker threads, you should know what I need ... another outlet for the new bandsaw. Originally I planned on sharing the tablesaw 220v/20A, however that isn't going to cut it because the bandsaw needs a 40A (or min 30A).

So ... it needs a dedicated line ... and thus, I need an electrician.

Any electricians around Charlotte looking for some side work? Shouldn't be more than a couple hours work to run a new line across the shop, I suppose.

Send me a PM soon ... I'll be looking for one in a hurry so I can use the new bandsaw!

[woodydiver]

hello jeremy,
i sent you a pm

[dino drosas]

Jeremy, It's about time you got that bandsaw. Finally gotten mine all dialed in and 1" carbide blade installed. Made a world of difference. As the saying goes here - "no picture, no bandsaw". Congrats and happy New Year!

[cpowell]

Originally Posted by gotojeremy

If you follow the North Carolina Woodworker threads, you should know what I need ... another outlet for the new bandsaw. Originally I planned on sharing the tablesaw 220v/20A, however that isn't going to cut it because the bandsaw needs a 40A (or min 30A).

So ... it needs a dedicated line ... and thus, I need an electrician.

Jeremy what is the motor HP and full load amps?

I don't know what you have in mind for the wiring but I went with a twist-loc receptacle and ran SJ cord to the starter on the bandsaw. Even if you run a 40 amp ckt you can use 10 AWG for the cord from the box/receptacle to the bandsaw. I prefer to unplug the bandsaw when changing blades rather than turn a breaker off. I like to drape the cord across the bandsaw table so I KNOW it is at zero energy state.

I would love to see pics when you get the bandsaw set up. I'm green with envy.

BTW you're gonna love those Great Lakes casters. I put them on my bandsaw and they are really nice. It took me a few iterations of moving them up and down before I became comfortable with them. Just remember that 3 points define a plane.


Chuck

[Badabing]

Hi Jeremy,
I know an electrician that is highly recommended (by my mom). I'm not sure he works on that side of town but I can ask...

However, if you want to save some money you can run the line yourself. It is fairly easy to do if you have the open space in your panel. I did this myself for my tablesaw a few years ago. I have zero electrical experience but I found some library books and lots of instructions online about how to do it. Then I went to HD and asked the guy in Electrical for help and he picked out all the stuff I needed and drew me a diagram as well.

I don't remember enough to give you detailed instructions here but I do recall that it was a lot simpler than I expected. I can come by tomorrow and help you if you like too!

Basically, you check your panel for the manufacturer and then pick up the circuit breaker, wiring, outlet and plug. You run the wire, wire the outlet, then shut the main in the panel and wire the breaker in. It really is that easy

Call me if you want more info or the electrician's number.

[McRabbet]

Jeremy, unless you are 100% confident about doing what Joe suggests, I recommend you hire an electrician. Small price to pay versus an accident.

[Bas]

For my workshop, I ran the wires myself, but I let a licensed electrician hook up the breakers and inspect the work. That seemed like a good compromise.

Fishing wires around duct work wasn't my favorite part, but as I was standing on the ladder, plugs of fiber glass insulation clogging my nose and dust trickling into my eyes, all I could think about was how much I wasn't paying the electrician In my case, it was definitely worth it, since I also had to install new surface mounted outlet boxes (remove old boxes, clean, prime, paint wall etc.).

If there is a straight shot from the main panel to your band saw (open ceiling, studs etc.), then don't bother, and let the pro handle it. But, if you want to do it yourself - 10/2 wire should be fine for your saw (30A circuit). I like the twist-type receptacle/ plug as well.

You may consider running another circuit while you're at it (assuming you have space in the panel), in case you want to add (heaven forbid) another tool, or upgrade something from 110V to 220V.

[TBone]

After reading the post by BAS, I wanted to relate something that happened to me. When I insulated my shop, I didn't wear a dust mask. I got some fiberglass fibers in my vocal chords that caused an infection. Long story short, muscle spasms in your vocal chords are NOT fun. Open and it's a clear path for liquid to your lungs. Closed and nothing reaches your lungs, including AIR! That's a rude awakening at 3AM. PLEASE wear a dust mask around insulation at ALL times.

[Badabing]

Seriously Jeremy, Rob is right, if you're not comfortable or have any doubts whatsoever, then a pro is the way to go. Better safe than sorry

Bas is right on with his methods too. The more 'safe' work you can do yourself the more money you save when the pro comes to complete the job

[DaveO]

Originally Posted by Badabing

Then I went to HD and asked the guy in Electrical for help

You're very brave, or was that back when they actually hired people that cared and knew a bit about what they were doing


Dave

[Badabing]

Originally Posted by DaveO

You're very brave, or was that back when they actually hired people that cared and knew a bit about what they were doing

Actually, it was a few years ago and I found most of the associates at HD or Lowes pretty helpful. These days I'm not so lucky, although a guy named Ira at the HD on Providence was really awesome last time I did some wiring and had questions. Unfortunately I had to filter through two other employees to get to him

My philosophy has always been that it doesn't hurt to ask. Sometimes if you ask you get surprised, sometimes you get disappointed, but you always get something

[McRabbet]

Originally Posted by Badabing

Seriously Jeremy, Rob is right, if you're not comfortable or have any doubts whatsoever, then a pro is the way to go. Better safe than sorry

Thanks, Joe for posting this -- many folks not in the know might not realize that there is still plenty of live electricity inside a panel box even with the main breaker thrown. It can be lethal to find out the hard way and it is usually a job for a professional. That said, I agree with Bas on saying that lots can be saved by running the circuit lines to the box and have a pro connect them to a new breaker.

However it is done, do it safely!!

[WoodWrangler]

Originally Posted by cpowell

I would love to see pics when you get the bandsaw set up. I'm green with envy.

Here it is! Now it just needs some power!



It also came with a power feeder, which needs more power!



:tinysmile _fatgrin_t

[WoodWrangler]

Originally Posted by Badabing

Seriously Jeremy, Rob is right, if you're not comfortable or have any doubts whatsoever, then a pro is the way to go. Better safe than sorry

Bas is right on with his methods too. The more 'safe' work you can do yourself the more money you save when the pro comes to complete the job

I helped my buddy (an electrician in Florida) run the 220 line I have, and it seemed simple ... but then again, I relied on him. Electricity is not my thing and I'd like to get a professional to do it if the fee is reasonable. I spoke to a referred electrician and he said it's likely 4 - 6 hours of work, but unfortunately he is busy for a month or more on weekends ... so no go. He referred another guy, who I called & left a message. Hopefully I can get someone out to do it sooner than later!

[WoodWrangler]

Originally Posted by cpowell

BTW you're gonna love those Great Lakes casters. I put them on my bandsaw and they are really nice. It took me a few iterations of moving them up and down before I became comfortable with them. Just remember that 3 points define a plane.


Chuck

Oh yeah, here is a pic of the casters ... pretty neat. Low profile, not in the way and they are plenty strong.