Thin Parts Ripping Jig

Thin Parts Ripping Jig · 08-29-2009, 07:35 PM

Purpose:
Rip splines/moldings to consistent thicknesses on table saw.

If you make the jig to an even width, you'll be able to use your fence cursor for ease of setup.

Begin by ripping a 48" piece of MDF to 1/16" oversize. i.e. 4 1/16", 5 1/16" etc. Bigger hands will benefit from a wider piece, and you can always rip it narrower from the RH edge later.
This will give you the material for the:
1. Auxiliary fence
2. Pusher shoe
3. Front edge Stop

Rout a miter groove down the center of this 48" piece. Don't have to be exact. I typically route a 3/4" wide X 3/8" deep groove.

Next crosscut off an 8"-10" piece that will be the pusher shoe. Flip this back over onto itself and you'll see that the groove is perfectly lined up. Later you will screw and/or glue a runner in this groove. This helps keep the aux fence up against the tablesaw fence when in use and out of the blade.

On the blade side of the pusher shoe attach a mounting block of 3/4" X 2" high X 10" long hardwood, flush against the LH edge. This block keeps the pusher foot screws high and away from the blade.
Note the leading edge is radius-ed to prevent the anti-kickback pawls from interfering with pulling the shoe back after the cut. As is the pusher foot.

Now rip the 2 parts to exact width. You'll need to raise the blade to trim the mounting block to make sure all parts are flush. It's critical that the pusher foot mount squarely .

Now you can install the handle, runner, and pusher foot. I use 1/8" tempered hardboard when cutting splines and 1/2" plywood when cutting off molding strips.

Crosscut the excess from the aux fence (no need to be longer that the tablesaw fence) for use as a stop to prevent the fence from sliding forward with the pusher shoe. I glued a magnet, recessed on the inside to help prevent aux fence movement.

Apply finish & wax for for smooth operation.

I always use the saw guard when ripping and have to keep the thicker pusher feet, like the mounting block well waxed to slip off the anti-backup pawls.

Joe Scharle · 08-29-2009, 07:38 PM

Somehow 2 of the pix disappeared from this tip. Someone tried to view it today and alerted me, so I started it again.

mlzettl · 08-29-2009, 08:31 PM

Joe,

That's a pretty slick jig. How narrow a piece can you accurately rip with it? It seems that if you're trying to rip some really thin pieces, let's say 1/16" or less, some problems may arise with the stock between the fence and the blade. The jigs that work from the left side of the blade allow really thin strips to fall away from the blade, but the downside is that you have to move the fence for each cut. The single setup of the fence and auxiliary fence that your jig allows is quite appealing. I also like all the built in safety features. Nice job, and thanks for sharing it.

Matt

Joe Scharle · 08-29-2009, 09:03 PM

Matt, I've actually ripped slices off of a 2 X 12 X 6 so thin that light can be seen thru them. I did it for one of my daughter's basket making project. In that case I used a thicker foot 3/4 ply and removed the guard to allow the blade to cut thru the foot. It took a little fiddling because the first couple were no more than plane shavings! I originally made the jig for consistent thickness of shop made molding.
Joe

froglips · 08-30-2009, 09:47 AM

Very slick! You got me with this little bit:

Next crosscut off an 8"-10" piece that will be the pusher shoe. Flip this back over onto itself and you'll see that the groove is perfectly lined up.

That is really a slick solution to keeping the groove and runner lined up.

Thanks for sharing!

Jim

jhreed · 08-30-2009, 11:23 AM

JOE, THIS LOOKS LIKE JUST WHAT I NEED FOR CUTTING SLATS FOR MY PORCH SWING. HOW FAR ARE YOU FROM GOLDSBORO?
JAMES H. REED

pirate71 · 08-30-2009, 12:35 PM

Joe -

You saved me. I have been putting off cutting a bunch of 1/2 inch molding to go over the seams in a luan ceiling in my garage because I never could think of a good jig. Now I don't have a good excuse not to do it!

Thank you for the great idea!

Evans

Bigdog72 · 08-30-2009, 12:57 PM

I built this jig under Joe's supervision and it works better than great. When Joe volunteers his time for a jigfest, I'm there! Hey Joe, hint, hint!

Joe Scharle · 08-30-2009, 01:31 PM

Originally Posted by jhreed

JOE, THIS LOOKS LIKE JUST WHAT I NEED FOR CUTTING SLATS FOR MY PORCH SWING. HOW FAR ARE YOU FROM GOLDSBORO?
JAMES H. REED

James, Holly Springs (this one!) is just south of Raleigh, between Apex & Fuquay-Varina

I built this jig under Joe's supervision and it works better than great. When Joe volunteers his time for a jigfest, I'm there! Hey Joe, hint, hint!

Geoff, I'm in the middle of my basement re-hab, so maybe late Sept.

Bigdog72 · 08-30-2009, 02:38 PM

Originally Posted by Joe Scharle

Geoff, I'm in the middle of my basement re-hab, so maybe late Sept.

Need any help?

Joe Scharle · 08-30-2009, 03:36 PM

Thanks for the offer, but I don't want anyone to see just how bad I am with a screwgun!!!

MrAudio815 · 09-20-2009, 01:10 PM

Wow Now that is Cool Joe,

This is a good pic of your project!

Have any other pics of close ups of the actual thin strips?

As always thanks for the step by step and good pics.

Joe Scharle · 09-20-2009, 01:17 PM

Here's a pic of some drawer divider parts (egg crate) from melamine. 1/8", I think.

MrAudio815 · 09-21-2009, 05:33 PM

Originally Posted by Joe Scharle

Here's a pic of some drawer divider parts (egg crate) from melamine. 1/8", I think.

Thanks Joe... Wish I was there to learn first hand,

Now I have to try to make it myself, with of course all the mistakes that come with my projects/Jigs.

YOUR ROCK WITH YOUR JIG BUILDING SKILLS~!!!

Joe Scharle · 09-21-2009, 05:49 PM

I'm sure you won't have an problem, but if you do, just post away.