Taper Sled

Taper Sled · 11-23-2008, 08:42 AM

Here's the GET STARTED for the taper jig:
For ease of use, it is aligned on both sides with the blade. Simply set a mark to the edge, tighten the hold downs and cut. Tilt the blade away from the jig and make compound miters as well. The jig does NOT use the fence.

Most table saws have about about 11+ inches between the miter slots. If this is your situation, then you can use these instructions.

1. Take a slab of 3/4" BB (melamine should work too) 13" X 36" and lay it snug and square against the blade on the LH side.

2. Make a mark on the leading edge (edge that hits the blade first) of the slab, over the CENTER of the miter slot. Mark this edge as the LEADING EDGE.
a. Now place the slab snug and square against the blade on th RH side.
b. Make a mark on the LEADING EDGE over the CENTER of the miter slot.

3. Plow a shallow dado on the bottom of the slab, CENTERED between these marks, about 1/16" deep, wide enough for YOUR miter runner (usually 3/4") BE EXACT.

4. 5" from each end, on the top of the slab, cut a dado to accept YOUR T-track. Wide enough - deep enough for a snug professional fit. These tracks are where you attach the fence.

5. Mount a runner; leave an inch or so protruding from the LEADING EDGE so you'll never confuse the LEADING EDGE. Mark with an arrow or something.
NEVER GET CONFUSED about what is the LEADING EDGE!

Before the next Step. Check that the blade is 90 degrees.

6. With the runner in the respective miter slots, LEADING EDGE first, trim off each side.
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Rip a 2" wide X 36" long fence. Be critical that both sides are square and true. Rout a groove for the T-track that mounts the hold downs and stop block, down the center like this. You'll need 2 slots for the fence lock down. The slots give the fence a range of motion. 2" are long enough. Note the reliefs in the center allow for the tracks bolts removal/installation.

Instead of stopped dados, you can plow a continuous groove and glue in blocks with slots for the fence lock downs.

Optionally, you can skip the fence T-track and mount toggle hold downs and bolt a stop block on the fence end.

WoodWrangler · 11-23-2008, 09:29 AM

Thanks for this how-to, Joe ... I like the look of that adjustable tapering jib!

For those who don't have one and are thinking "I'll just get one of the cheap metal ones" that they sell ... DON'T. They aren't so safe and this would be a better bet.

MikeL · 11-23-2008, 10:29 AM

Joe, thank you for posting this! I had been looking at taper jigs recently. This does look like a much better solution. When is your next class?

Bas · 11-23-2008, 10:51 AM

Originally Posted by MikeL

Joe, thank you for posting this! I had been looking at taper jigs recently. This does look like a much better solution. When is your next class?

This Saturday. I'm heading out to get a sheet of melamine today and get started on the homework

Boy I can't remember the last time having homework was fun!!!

Joe Scharle · 11-23-2008, 10:56 AM

A couple of folks have indicated they want to get together Saturday after Thanksgiving 11/29 1-5. If you want to attend, let me know.

Joe Scharle · 12-03-2008, 04:34 PM

Just to compare my jig with the Dubby, I ordered one from Peachtree last week when they were $59.95. Put it together this AM and cut 4 short legs. Compared to my shop built jig:

The sled is a Melamine covered 1/2" (metric equiv) but the core is stiffer than I can buy from the BORG. Minimal significant value.

The fence is 1/2" (metric equiv) extruded aluminum. Significant value.
It's anchored to the sled at 3 points along channels routed underneath, which is probably more secure, but makes adjusting the fence a little cumbersome. The middle anchor gets in the way of moving the hold downs. To cut anything over 3/4" thick, I had to make 1/2" ply riser blocks for the hold downs.

The miter track runner has the anti-tip buttons on each end and 4 bullet head set screws for snugness. This is a one size fits all compromise and the value may or may not be significant to another user. With 4 pre-drilled runner positions, it should be adaptable to any saw. Significant value. If your saw has standard cabinet saw miter channels, the sled can be trimmed to run in either side. Significant value.

The main drawback for me is that I can't run the legs 'back wards' due to the design of the stop (would get cutoff) and it places the rear hold down in-line with the blade. Negative significant value. My work around was the little 1/2" ply blocker on the LH side of the blade.

At $59.95, I feel this jig has good overall value, especially for those without the tools to plow slots and T-track channels easily. However, I think that if I could find a fence like the Dubby at a reasonable price, my version could be made by any woodworker easily and quick.

Bigdog72 · 12-03-2008, 06:28 PM

Joe,

I'm thinking something like this could work as a fence. Your thoughts?

http://www.woodpeck.com/supertrack.html

Joe Scharle · 12-03-2008, 06:47 PM

$40.00 for 36 inches!
I was thinking along the lines of $10-20 myself. I've seen these channels online somewhere, but cannot call it up. Maybe someone will have a brain flash.

Bas · 12-03-2008, 08:01 PM

Joe, thanks for a very honest jig comparison. For $59.95, the jig is definitely a good deal. If you add the cost of melamine, T-track, hold downs, knobs & other hardware, you're up to $30 - $35. Add to that the wear and tear of your router bits, drill bits, electricity etc. and the savings are minimal. I like how easy it is to modify the fence on the shop-made jig, but that aluminum fence does look nice.

Both will get the job done.

woodlaker2 · 12-03-2008, 08:32 PM

Thanks Joe. Do you have any pictures posted somewhere of your jig? Looks like there were supposed to be two with you post but when I clicked on the boxes it indicated photos could not be found. I'd really like to see your jig as I am hoping to make one.