Better Lumber By Drying at Home Inexpensively - Kiln BOM

[jimithy]

NOTE: I use the word "kiln" here to indicate a structure/device that can control the environment enough to get good results when drying wood. It can be heated or not (I will give 3 inexpensive ways I have heated it). It can function during various seasons. It is not comparable to professional kilns. It simply gives the home woodworker a cheap way to control the drying process for his specific requirements.

I like to know costs up front so here is a list of the materials I used. The footprint is about 12' x 10' but can easily be modified to be larger or smaller.

I do not dry wood often... so I need something to serve as a kiln that is quick to put together, very cheap, does not have to be pinned to withstand wind gusts, & can serve as various types of kilns with slight mods. My kiln design is unique because I have unique needs. i.e. After use it must be able to be disassembled & stored using very little space (about 18"x12"x12'), it must be easy to modify for large variances in the length of the lumber, etc. I'd suggest you modify this design to meet your own needs. I'll toss out ideas about obvious changes and the ramifications of each.

Basically it is constructed using cheap 2x4s, cheap PVC pipe, and cheap plastic sheeting. If you use this a lot then I'd suggest a more robust design or at least use thicker plastic sheeting. The 4 mil sheeting will only last a few years. I prefer to replace the cheap sheeting when needed so that I don't groan so much when I stick a board through it The pine must be structurally sound but can look ugly. NOTE: Do not introduce diseased wood into any part of the kiln.

Materials Requirements for drying about 600-800 bd ft cut in 8' lengths.

Two 2"x4"x12' - cheap straight pine
Two 2"x4"x10' - cheap straight pine
Four 2"x4"x8' - cheap straight pine
Four 2"x6"x10' - cheap VERY straight pine
Four 2"x4"x10' - cheap VERY straight pine
Five 2"x4"x8' - cheap VERY straight pine
12 Blocks >=4" high x >=8" deep x >=8 long" that together can hold up to 1000s of lbs.
Two 1"x2"x12' - use whatever scrap that pieces together to be 12' long
Fourteen 3/4"x10' - Schedule 40 PVC pipe
38 approx. 2" wood screws (what ever is on hand)
50 to 80 3" nails of most any type (I used 2.5" finishing nails)
2 to 4 oz. yellow wood glue

EITHER
Four 3/4" 90 degree Slip Elbows - Schedule 40 PVC pipe
Ten 3/4" Slip Tees - Schedule 40 PVC pipe

OR
One 2"x4"x12' - cheap straight pine (that requires twenty 1 1/8" holes drilled in it)

One 20'x24' 4 mil Clear Plastic Sheet (about $20 at Big Box Discount Store)
One variable speed 20" (or larger) fan
Two digital thermometers with hygrometers (AKA humidity readout) (I bought 2 last year for $6 each but you can spend big bucks if you want)
One Moisture Meter for wood (resistive meters can be inexpensive & give reasonable results for at home use)
100' 1/4" nylon rope (or 100' of something to lash across the plastic sheeting... that will not shred the sheeting )
Three Nylon straps with ratchets >=3500 lb working load >=4' longer than the girth of your stack (27' are $17 ea at Big Box Building Supply)

For a "solar" kiln add:

One more 20'x24' 4 mil Clear Plastic Sheet

For an "insulated" kiln add (and yes... it can be an insulated "solar" kiln):

Ten 4'x8' Semi-Rigid Foam Boards - thickness based upon R-Value needs (for High R-Values use fiberglass batting w/facing)

To heat an "insulated" kiln add:

One inexpensive 12 amp thermostatically controlled heater w/fan (with safety's intact)

Tools needed...

Screwdriver
Drill
One 1 1/8" bit for holes <3" deep
Saw to make five 2"x4" cross-cuts
Generic Hammer

[jimwill48]

Any photo's. Would love to see it...

jw

[jimithy]

Yes, I have photos of lots of aspects of this process and they will be included where appropriate. Without an overall design... and the reasons behind it... I believe photos of the "kiln" would be premature at this time. There are so many variations that take it from ridiculously simple to fairly complex that the "kiln" can look quite different depending upon its current use.

I jumped ahead and gave the materials list because it defines what I meant when I put the nebulous word "Inexpensively" in the title. Many people will read this BOM and say that I should have used the word "Shoddily" or "Stupidly".

I would like this "how to" to be a springboard for people to throw in their own ideas/experience. I'm not a pro and by putting "at Home" in the title I am indicating that this is not specifically geared towards professional woodworkers.

If woodworking is your income then you need to spend as little labor as possible to get the best results. I live off of a small disability check. I need to spend as little money as possible to get the best results.

[Bas]

Originally Posted by jimithy

If woodworking is your income then you need to spend as little labor as possible to get the best results. I live off of a small disability check. I need to spend as little money as possible to get the best results.

Hmmm, I'm cheap AND lazy, so I guess I'm out of luck either way! Seriously, I'm looking forward to this "how-to", sounds like a great project so far.

[Jeff Mills]

Originally Posted by jimithy

NOTE: I use the word "kiln" here to indicate a structure/device that can control the environment enough to get good results when drying wood. It can be heated or not (I will give 3 inexpensive ways I have heated it). It can function during various seasons. It is not comparable to professional kilns. It simply gives the home woodworker a cheap way to control the drying process for his specific requirements.

I like to know costs up front so here is a list of the materials I used. The footprint is about 12' x 10' but can easily be modified to be larger or smaller.

I do not dry wood often... so I need something to serve as a kiln that is quick to put together, very cheap, does not have to be pinned to withstand wind gusts, & can serve as various types of kilns with slight mods. My kiln design is unique because I have unique needs. i.e. After use it must be able to be disassembled & stored using very little space (about 18"x12"x12'), it must be easy to modify for large variances in the length of the lumber, etc. I'd suggest you modify this design to meet your own needs. I'll toss out ideas about obvious changes and the ramifications of each.

Basically it is constructed using cheap 2x4s, cheap PVC pipe, and cheap plastic sheeting. If you use this a lot then I'd suggest a more robust design or at least use thicker plastic sheeting. The 4 mil sheeting will only last a few years. I prefer to replace the cheap sheeting when needed so that I don't groan so much when I stick a board through it The pine must be structurally sound but can look ugly. NOTE: Do not introduce diseased wood into any part of the kiln.

Materials Requirements for drying about 600-800 bd ft cut in 8' lengths.

Two 2"x4"x12' - cheap straight pine
Two 2"x4"x10' - cheap straight pine
Four 2"x4"x8' - cheap straight pine
Four 2"x6"x10' - cheap VERY straight pine
Four 2"x4"x10' - cheap VERY straight pine
Five 2"x4"x8' - cheap VERY straight pine
12 Blocks >=4" high x >=8" deep x >=8 long" that together can hold up to 1000s of lbs.
Two 1"x2"x12' - use whatever scrap that pieces together to be 12' long
Fourteen 3/4"x10' - Schedule 40 PVC pipe
38 approx. 2" wood screws (what ever is on hand)
50 to 80 3" nails of most any type (I used 2.5" finishing nails)
2 to 4 oz. yellow wood glue

EITHER
Four 3/4" 90 degree Slip Elbows - Schedule 40 PVC pipe
Ten 3/4" Slip Tees - Schedule 40 PVC pipe

OR
One 2"x4"x12' - cheap straight pine (that requires twenty 1 1/8" holes drilled in it)

One 20'x24' 4 mil Clear Plastic Sheet (about $20 at Big Box Discount Store)
One variable speed 20" (or larger) fan
Two digital thermometers with hygrometers (AKA humidity readout) (I bought 2 last year for $6 each but you can spend big bucks if you want)
One Moisture Meter for wood (resistive meters can be inexpensive & give reasonable results for at home use)
100' 1/4" nylon rope (or 100' of something to lash across the plastic sheeting... that will not shred the sheeting )
Three Nylon straps with ratchets >=3500 lb working load >=4' longer than the girth of your stack (27' are $17 ea at Big Box Building Supply)

For a "solar" kiln add:

One more 20'x24' 4 mil Clear Plastic Sheet

For an "insulated" kiln add (and yes... it can be an insulated "solar" kiln):

Ten 4'x8' Semi-Rigid Foam Boards - thickness based upon R-Value needs (for High R-Values use fiberglass batting w/facing)

To heat an "insulated" kiln add:

One inexpensive 12 amp thermostatically controlled heater w/fan (with safety's intact)

Tools needed...

Screwdriver
Drill
One 1 1/8" bit for holes <3" deep
Saw to make five 2"x4" cross-cuts
Generic Hammer

I just stick a bunk outside under my leanto till reaches EMC. EMC around here is about 15% MC then I throw a tarp over the the stack and put my dehumidifier in with the stack. After a few weeks of running the dehumidifier, the bunk is dry to around 8~10%. I do not dare sell lumber I dry this way, it's for personal use only, I'm concerned about sterilization (bug kill). Make sure the dehumidifer safety shut off works, because it gets good and hot under the tarp, you don't want to start no fires or anything.

When sticking a bunk it's best to keep it at least 6" off the vapor bearrior (4 mil black plastic works well) , a little rock salt mound around the bunk will help keep bugs at bay. Put your sticks on 12" centers and use three 10,000 lb ratchet straps (one in the center and one on each end) this keeps the bunk nice and tight. Every so often walk by the bunk and tighten the ratchet straps they will loosen as the lumber dries and shrinks.

Right now I got a load of some figured gum that I will be tarping in the next month or so...

Thanks

[JimmyC]

This is very interesting to me. I am following tis series and await the next intallment .

Thank you.

[jimithy]

Sorry I'm still not used to this system. I forgot to put in the link to the next installment. Link

[Tarhead]

Sorry Jim...the whole title of each thread doesn't display unless you open them. They appear to be multiple postings off the same thing in the home page "New Posts" summary...especially when looking at the site via Blackberry.

Appreciate all of your work to describe this process. I'm using the stack, sticker, ratchet strap, cover for a few years outside; then stick in a hot/cold shed for a few years. Shoulda' used the Boracare on a nice load of QSWO and RO when I first got it. Thank goodness that's all that got eaten....well....other than my wallet.
Welcome to the group from a Kanawha River valley refugee.

[jimithy]

Tarhead,

Thanks for the explanation about thread titles. In the "How To" Thread list the whole titles display with my browser so I did not know what the problem was for others.

Tarhead & Jeff Mills,

The methods you have written about are quite viable and most importantly... they fit your needs. I wish other people would toss in posts about their systems.

What I am documenting are variations of the "stick,stack,strap" system.

There are several reason why I am documenting it.

1. For people wanting to try this there are many pitfalls because of inadequate documentation.

2. I have a very specific set of processes to reduce problems with infestation, checking, uneven drying, etc.

3. My methods cost little more than tarps but are highly flexible to handle a wide variety of drying requirements and conditions.

4. Others, like me, do not have enough years left to wait for years before working the lumber. I need more drying time than a commercial kiln but much less than most "tarp" systems.

5. Lastly and MOST importantly... I am probably doing several things the wrong way or a much more difficult way than required. I need to know that. By carefully defining exactly what I do I can give some lucky person (or people) the joy of correcting me

Thanks again for your thoughtful posts!

jimithy