Guys, for 3 years now I have been looking for a tree slab consisting of 50 growth rings. I do not have any preference of what type of tree...........I just want that 50 ring count.

If you would just keep it in mind the next time you see a slab laying around and let me know about it, I would certainly appreciate it.

~Bill

I am contemplating starting a journey into pen making. Trying to decide what supplies and equipment would be best to get. I have a few questions I am hoping you experienced penmakers out there can help me with.

First up is what kind of mandrel should I get? I have been looking at the Mandrel Saver from PSI. The concept of it makes sense to me but are there reasons I should get a normal mandrel instead?

Second, where is a good place to get pen making supplies? Not pen blanks but just the kits. I have been looking around at PSI and a few other places. One of the things I want to make is pencil kits. All of PSI's kits use 0.7mm lead and I would rather have 0.5mm lead. I prefer to get all my supplies from one place. Is there a better place to buy from then PSI?

Third is about finishes. What is a good way to finish the pens? I have seen everything from simple polishes to heat activated lacquers to ca glue. I just want a durable finish that will hold up over time whether I give them away as gifts or sell them.

Any other information or suggestions is appreciated.

I am changing the dust collection drops in the shop from 4" spiral pipe to 6" spiral pipe starting this week. I have some elbows, bends and spiral pipe available for a nominal fee if anyone is interested. Call, PM or email me for details.

Looking for one 4x4 red oak post 8' long. Must be dry. If you have such a beast and want to sell, please send me a PM.

mike

Ebay Seller is looking to part with a vintage #7 with sole damage "behind the blade." See image. What do you think? Can it be put back to use? Seems to me if the rest of the sole is ok (and I'm only looking for a daily driver, not a collectible), this shouldn't affect performance.

What say the wiser? (Better question might be, "How does one damage a plane like this?")

$T2eC16JHJHEFFmJEpvC7BRk+yqj3Kg~~60_3.jpg

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Hi All,

After the picnic, on my way home I stopped by Ed Lebetkin's store to do some business. This usually ends up in me giving him $$, but this time I had some stuff to sell him. After all was said and done I left his fine establishment with a very nice Stanley 5 1/2 and a credit in his shop to boot,

I plan on using this as a jointer for smaller pieces as it is lighter than my Lie-Nielson #7 and longer that my Stanley #5. It does have a repaired broken tote but I plan on replacing it with either a vintage one or one I make, i'm not sure yet. Over the next few weeks (elbow injures permitting), I will be tuning and refurbishing this beauty to working order.

Here are some pics of this awesome plane



-Aaron

I am posting this to help point out something that looks like a good deal but might not be

Ridgid Ossolating Sander come in two colors the early grey ones
and the orange ones

http://raleigh.craigslist.org/tls/3818546851.html

This is a early grey one.... The require a coupler to make the shaft of the sander work with the belt attachment... you can no longer buy the coupler anymore and the belt attachment will not work without it and the belt attachment is also a parcel different assembly because of this

even if you find a grey one with the coupler be warned that the coupler can get stuck on the shaft and that is why I understand they changed the design

The gray ones still should make a good oscillating spindle sander so if you got this for the right price it could be a good deal... I would offer about $40 for it if I needed one.... I replaced by grey one with a orange one that is why I am pointing this out

Hello,


I finished this a while back and the Customer loves it. It holds 100 golf balls and has a shelf at the bottom to display his little motorcycles. All in all it was a fun project and took about 6 hours to complete.

I also gave him an Awase Meadows Golf Ball as he said he won't make it there. It's a great place to golf.


The Owner Proudly displaying the rack. He also did all the staining.



Thanks for looking/commenting~!

I'm looking to purchase a hand saw to cut dovetails and tenons, but don't want to dive in just yet and get specialized saws for each task. I might find that I don't like it as much and don't want to invest too heavily in specialized hand tools just yet. The only hand saws I have right now are a flush cut saw and a tree limbing saw. Any recommendations on what saw to purchase?

Hello,


Here are some pens I completed a couple weeks back all are the Premier Cigar Pen kits.


Beech


Mahogany


Bocote


Curly Koa




Thanks for looking/Commenting~! Of course if you have any tips I am all ears too.

Here is a commission piece I just recently finished. It is a gift for the retiring director of the local women's choir. The song is one of choir's favorite pieces and their signature song. The lettering is 1/4" think walnut I picked from Jeff Mills a number of years back. The plaque itself is some of the curly maple we got during the SRHardwoods lumber run this past winter. The entire piece is roughly 24" long by 9" high.

Plaque_2.JPG

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I am building a toy chest and it is time to glue up the dovetailed sides of the chest. Any recommendations on a glue to use? I usually use Titebond I or II, but I am a little concerned about open time. I recently picked up some Titebond Hide Glue, maybe this would be a good place to use it?

Thanks,
Jeremy

Jane Burke will be our next guest speaker in the chat room on June 20 at 8:00 pm.

Jane currently lives in Atlanta and makes her living in marquetry (making pictures from veneer). She grew up in South Africa and moved to Paraguay before coming to the United States. She has been involved in the wood business since 1995, starting out by owning a wholesale hardwood flooring business for 11 years before moving to marquetry professionally in 2007. She has made several television appearances on the DIY Network (Woodsculpting, Tools & Techniques, DIY Next Door, and DIY People), NBC Nashville Network, and Public Access TV. She has developed two DVDs Pattern Approach for Marquetry (2008) and The Art of Marquetry (2002). She has been featured in several publications, such as The Ultimate Band Saw Box Book, Easy Weekend Wood Projects, Woodworking for Women Magazine, Women in Woodworking website, and Good Woodworking Magazine UK. She also teaches several different classes in Georgia and at the John C. Campbell Folk School. Her websites are:

http://www.gtcreations.com/

http://www.janeburke.com/

Below are some examples of some of her work:




Mark your calendars.

Steve H.

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I was tossed up between putting this thread here or the tools forum. Figured I'd start here since I'm looking for opinions specifically from other turners :)

I want to move up from my 1014 so I'm looking for a sub $1k full sized lathe. I don't have 220 in the shop, so has to run 110. Would prefer something with a large range which seems to exclude many of the reeves drive units. Ideally I would like to go down sub 400 for bigger turnings and up around 3k for pens and small spindle items.

1x8tpi would be preferred so I can use my existing chucks but if an adapter is available then that is acceptable as well. So basically no really oddball sized threads.

Good travel on the tail stock since I do drilling on there as well

Indexing would be nice but not entirely necessary

I'm sure I've missed a few things, but those are the highlights of what I'm after.


I thought initially the Nova 1624 would be a good fit but I've read so many mixed reviews that I'm sort of nervous about that unit. Same with the Grizzly line and the Grizzly has a very limited range with the reeves drive it uses.

If anyone can steer me in the right direction it would be greatly appreciated.

One of the projects I need to do... make a new crawlspace door for outside access. I want to make it louvered for better ventilation but be able to close it in winter. In principle it seems simple, make louvers, make a door frame, attach louvers with dowels in the center of the frame. Am I over simplifying this in my mind? One concern is the dowels might expand or rot. So plastic or metal rod might be better, Rockler sells some plastic pins and I'll probably use those. The door is 40" wide, so I should run a stile down the middle rather than have really long louvers.

Kinda looking for someone to check me on this in case I'm overlooking something.

One thing I don't know how to do is move the louvers. Usually there is a rod that attaches somehow so when you move it up and down it opens and closes them but I'm not clear on how that works.

The wife kept announcing she needed more end table space. The end table is in a traffic area so it had to "flow" and give more counter area. I threw this all Birch table together to solve a problem. She's happy..............for now.

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20 gallon air compressor with a pin hole in tank.... ideas anyone

yea it is older and I guess it is rusting through....

I guess my best best it try to find someone with a newer but broken compressor with good tank to switch out for mine but wondered any other idea

a new tank would be about 200 online or 500 from grainger and in that case better to buy a new whole compressor

After leaving the picnic I went back by Clemmons to see my sister. She has a retired gentleman making furniture in her barn/workshop. He is currently making a reproduction of a walnut lowboy from an original in the Smithsonian. But that's not what this is about. He has a beautiful table made of spalted maple that he wants to finish and not alter the original color. All the finishes he's tried have left an amber or yellow tint to the wood samples. Does anyone here have any ideas about what he might use that would be completely transparent with no color distortion? I thought of mineral oil but I'm not sure it wold be durable enough. He does all his joinery and planing by hand and spends a lot of time producing some beautiful work. Next time I go up I'll get pics.

with less than 2 hours on the clock :dontknow:
A puff of blue smoke, a stink and that's all she wrote!

Bought this nice little Union #3 size plane on Ebay. It is in very good condition. The seller replaced the knob and tote with new ones that he made from zebrawood. I pretty much bid on it because of the knob and tote, it looks great (imo).

This plane has the (really) early style lateral adjust lever with the bent portion of the lever that engages the slot in the iron located above the pivot point. IIRC Union went through (at least) three styles of lateral lever. First was just like this one with the bend in the lever above the pivot point. Next was the two piece design with the round disk replacing the bend in the lever, but still above the pivot point. Last one had the disk mounted below the pivot point, just like the Stanley laterals.

This plane also has a tapered iron which gets thicker at the bottom. Must be a replacement iron, possibly from a wooden plane. All of the Unions that I have seen with original Union irons have had the thicker (~1/8") irons.

This is also the first Union plane I have seen the didn't have Union cast into the base.

Anyway, after cleaning it up, sharpening the iron and fine tuning, it cuts like a dream. This is definitely a keeper.

I have a Dayton industrial shop fan. It is too strong. I sure would like to slow it down to about 1/3 speed. It is a Dayton Model 3F298H with a 120 volt 4.5 amp motor. Any ideas?

I have a pattern on plexiglass. It is straight lines, but there are V shapes so I don't know if scoring and snapping would work. I tried scroll saw and jig saw on part of the waste to test and it melts it enough that the scroll kerf is welded back completely and while the jig saw cut could be snapped away, it was rough. I need clean edges left behind.

Advice?

Since the chest turned out so extraordinary we have decided to make the drawers of solid wood instead of ply.

We need about 110 linear feet of 4/4 or 60 feet of 5/4 pine or poplar at least 6 1/2 inches wide.

We would like to have this donated by one of our hardwood suppliers, if no one steps up, I'll pull some cash out of my personal savings.

Remember the thread a while back about projects to get introduced to woodworking ? I always thought that a shaker end table was the textbook starter project. So here's a couple of mine, actually the second and third ones I've made. No, you don't want to see the first one. One is obviously walnut and the other is white oak with an elm top.


image.jpgimage.jpg

--Claus

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Hi Woodworkers,
My friend has asked me to build him a half dozen stools similar to the attached photo. They'll probably be painted or stained with dark walnut. It's my first shot at furniture, so I'd like some advice on:

1) Wood selection. The stools will be at his business and probably will see a fair amount of traffic.
2) Pricing. I know this will depend on wood selection, but I'm looking for a guideline.

Thanks

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